Ayers Rock: A Destination with a Difference

A friend of mine, curious to experience the Australian Outback, had chosen Ayers Rock as his holiday destination. His first reaction when he arrived was: “What on earth is that huge rock doing in the middle of the desert?” Nevertheless, he was awestruck by the view that greeted him. The brooding presence of the huge boulder drew him in, beckoning him to explore the mysteries of its heights. Those who have been to Ayers Rock before generally rate the experience as `indescribable’ - something that has to be seen in order

to be believed.

More than just a huge rock

What exactly is Ayers Rock? Ayers Rock is a large sandstone formation located in the heart of the Uluru-Katatjuta National Park in the Northern Territory region. It is often referred to as a monolith - cited as the largest monolith in the world in some publications - but it has been argued in recent years that this would be an inaccurate description. It is actually part of a larger rock formation beneath the ground – like an iceberg – extending far over three miles beneath the surface. It is one of the world’s greatest natural wonders and the Australian Outback’s most famous icon, rising more than 300 metres above the ground with a circumference of over 5 miles all around.

Ayers Rock is well-known not just for its majestic presence, but also for its ability to change colours under different lighting and weather conditions. Just as its monumental size stands out in the flat grounds of the hinterland, so is it deeply embedded in the myths and legends of the the Aborigines. The ‘great pebble’ invites speculation on the mystery of its origins and visitors can’t help but feel a great sense of awe when they lay their eyes upon its massive structure, unable to shake off the feeling that there is something magical about it.

Ayer's Rock is also known as `Uluru’, a name given by the Aborigines meaning `Great Pebble’, which is aptly chosen as from a distance, it does resemble a huge pebble, or perhaps an island in the middle of the great desert plains. An explorer named Ernest Giles first saw it in 1872 from afar but he was prevented from taking a closer look at it by the great Lake Amadeus. He described the formation as `the remarkable pebble’. Later on in 1873, a surveyor named William Gosse became the first non-indigenous to have visited the rock up close and personal, naming it `Ayers Rock’ after the Chief Secretary of Australia at the time, Sir Henry Ayers. The name stuck to this very day, at least with the general public, even though the Aborigines still prefer to call it `Uluru’.

The mythical monolith

Ayers Rock, or Uluru as the Aborigines prefer to call it, is managed by the tribes of Pitjantjatjara and Yankuntjatjara, collectively known as the Anangu. To the Aborigines, Uluru is a sacred site with profound spiritual significance, and has been an important focus of their spiritual life for thousands of years. Around the base of Uluru, numerous aboriginal paintings and carvings from the ancient times can be seen, some of them accompanied with descriptions on their meanings and significance.

The Aborigines believe that ancestral beings still live there, and are keen to preserve the purity and sanctity of Uluru, advising visitors to refrain from climbing its slopes and keeping some areas strictly off-limits where no entry or photography is allowed. Many who have attempted to climb the steeply-sloping surfaces of Uluru had failed miserably, with quite a number of missions ending in deaths from falls and heart attacks. The main cause of such mishaps are attributed to exhaustion, the heat and the recklessness of the climbers themselves, but the aborigines see it as a sign of disapproval from the ancestral beings, a solid reason as to why visitors shouldn’t climb it in the first place. There are also reports of previous climbers returning parts of Uluru that they have `stolen’ - pieces of rock they have picked up or chipped off as mementos – to the park employees, sometimes accompanied by notes explaining the cause of return: a feeling of guilt, uneasiness or a streak of bad luck believed to have been caused by the pieces. Some people believe that it is because the ancestors had placed a curse on Uluru, which further reinforces their belief that this site is sacred and must be protected and preserved. They truly believe that the health of the cosmos depends on the preservation of Uluru.

Geologically, the origins of Uluru can be traced back some five hundred million years ago, from sand piling up from the bottom of the ocean that once covered central Australia.

Over time, from the effects of wind and water, the accumulating sand formed a large rock-hard `island’ with a flat top. However, according to some Aboriginal beliefs, Uluru was once an ocean, but after a great battle at its shores, it rose in revolt at the bloodshed, forming the great blood-coloured boulder. Another legend has it that it was formed during the period of Tjukurapa, or Dreamtime, an era in which their heroic ancestors created the known earth through their travels and adventures along the trails around the desert.

Some believe that the patterning of gullies, caves and platforms on the surface of Uluru were once camps made and used by these ancient tribes, during their trips to Uluru for their initiation rites. Before this period, it is believed that the earth did not exist the way it does today. It is also believed that one of the caves on Uluru, which is now fenced off, was the site of the final initiation rites, and that its walls are stained with the blood of the hero ancestors. To the Anangu, Uluru is a manifestation of the Tjukurpa period.

The natural wonder

Ayers Rock is not only the epicentre of ancient mythical beliefs, it is also a wondrous beauty in its own right. Its main attraction lies in its ability to undergo dramatic colour transformations under certain lighting and weather conditions. Depending on the time of day and the atmospheric conditions, the rock can change from blue to yellow to orange to pink to deep red and even to violet. The most spectacular view is at sunset, when it glows a rich shade of red. As Ayers Rock is made of sandstone infused with minerals such as feldspar and iron oxide, the rock face reflects the reddish rays in sunsets, giving it a fiery glow. Some resorts around the area offer outdoor dining at sunset overlooking the rock, which can provide a surreal experience for the diners. Ayers Rock’s surface is also dotted with springs and waterholes which fill up with clear, refreshing water during the wet season of May to September, and the area around it is home to hundreds of species of plants and wildflowers, which come into full bloom in the rainy season.

Uluru/Ayers Rock is perfect for those who seek a different kind of adventure. It is not your average, typical tourist-friendly destination, filled with touristy activities and commercial attractions, but it possesses an unconventional beauty, a natural charm which is unparallel to what you can find in more popular destinations. The sight of the glowing red rock alone, set against the vast outback plains and the bright blue sky, is an experience in itself. A few words of advice though: If you do decide to climb the steep slopes of Ayers Rock, bring plenty of water, take extra precaution with your steps, stick to the designated route, and respect the natural environment and the wishes of the aborigines.

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