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From car number plates to telephone and bank account numbers,
Hong Kong is well known with its people’s obsession for lucky or
auspicious numbers. The number eight, in particular, is much prized
because of it rhymes with the Cantonese word for prosperity.
Conversely, the number four is shunned because it has connotations with
the word for death. A single digit 8 on a car number plate is likely
to be worth millions of dollars.
Such concern for prosperity may, in
a way, have contributed to Hong Kong’s rapid rise to become a rich
city in such a short time, and a habitually risk loving people
cannot help but punt in the hopes of quickly growing their riches.
At the races
Hong Kong tries its luck at the races
(pictured above). The first racetrack at
Happy Valley still runs races to this day. The first race was held
here in 1846, at the time the only suitable land on the island where
a “flat” race could be held. In the early days, races were held only
once a year, around the Lunar New Year. Today, races are held either
here or at the newer and larger Shatin racetrack on weekends. The
racetrack at Happy Valley has recently been upgraded to a grassed
track. Tall buildings shoot up all around the racetrack, leaving it
the only patch of flat land in the area.
On race days, especially at night, the atmosphere is literally
electric, especially during night races when the track is brightly
lit up. Night races are held at Happy Valley on alternate Wednesday
nights. In days past the Keswick family of Jardines fame held sway
at the races, but the stewards of today are a diverse and ethnically
local group. The ordinary folk flock to the races too, putting in
their little bets in the hope of winning big. You can pay an
entrance fee of HK$ 10 to enter and join the crowd. An overseas
visitor package gives you access to more parts of the track than an
ordinary ticket does, while the Racing in Style Package worth HK$
543 595 gives 12 guests a buffet and viewing from the exclusive
Jockey Club Box.
Modern racing is a combination of spectator sport, a “sport of
kings” and also a casino of sorts. However, the Jockey Club has
striven to diversify and upgrade its image and that of racing. The
takings of a single race day in Hong Kong are said to exceed a
year’s worth of betting at some tracks in Europe and North America.
The Jockey club has given generously back to the public with
donations to charity and by funding the construction of Hong Kong’s
Ocean Park. It also operates the Mark Six Lottery, the only legal
lottery here.
Macau possibly the biggest punting magnet in Asia
For a table punting experience Hong Kong takes to sea. Nowadays,
with cruise ships equipped with on-board casinos embarking from
here, choices are more varied, but not too long ago, punters itchy
for some action took a boat to get to Macau, where gambling has been
legal since 1847. The trip can now be taken via fast hydrofoil or a
slower ferry. It can be done as a day trip, but be sure about the
boat schedules and weather conditions.
One of the best known landmarks of Macau is the Hotel Lisboa. The
round building located on the waterfront, with its golden crown,
looks like an exercise in kitsch. However, it is actually a fine
example of very aggressive use of feng shui principles. The entrance
is shaped like a tiger’s mouth, trapping the wealth of those who
come to try their luck. The building is shaped like a birdcage, the
better to keep the wealth relieved from the gamblers from flying
away. Constant renovation is carried out to re-align the feng shui
with the changing requirements of each passing year what was once
an auspicious location for something may hold the opposite value in
the next year.
Invariably, luck tends to run out now and then. You then have to
find out how you can turn the corner. Commonly found at nightmarkets
on some of the streets of Hong Kong, the palm reader may be able to
divine your future and even offer some advice on what to do and what
best to avoid. For a different kind of divination, head on to the
Wong Tai Sin Temple. It is located in New Kowloon and is often very
busy. In order to determine your fate, you first take a cylinder
full of thin sticks. Then you shake it up and down, until one of the
sticks fall out. You then pass your stick to a soothsayer who can
interpret the stick to tell you about your future.
The Cantonese obsession with luck and good fortune may get to be
a bit much after a while. If you are a tourist on a short trip, much
of this may go over your head. But if you are looking to stay a
little longer to learn more about the people, you will notice this
aspect of Hong Kong life fairly soon. The obsession with making
money here has grown to be coupled with a strong sense that
mysterious forces not within our control determine human fates.
Superstition and Feng Shui appear to have a universal hold on the
people, but it sure makes for a more interesting story about why
things are done differently in Hong Kong and Macau.
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