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 In the past couple of years, an emerging trend in
stories about places to visit in Hong Kong has turned towards its
nature parks and undeveloped seafronts. This is a remarkable
development, as Hong Kong had always been identified as a highly
urbanized place, with shopping, and not hiking, as its choice
tourist activity.
Wilderness near a bustling metropolis
Hong Kong’s city area occupies
only a small portion of its total land area. Much of the island is
made up of tall peaks which were not suitable for development. As a
result, most of the development activities were focused upon the
seafront, and land was reclaimed for development purposes. The
island of Lantau has remained relatively undeveloped, up until
recently. With the construction of the new bridge and highway, this
island has become more accessible. The mainland New Territories
have
long been regarded as a wilderness for good reason, and some of it
is now popular with the outdoor crowd.
The island
of Hong Kong was once rocky and barren, when it was taken by the
British in 1842. A long policy of reforestation has restored its
temperate-tropical woods image, which is something like how it was
before heavy impact settlement by immigrants from other parts of
China and even from abroad. Even though the island is home to about
1.3 million people, over 40 % of its land area is reserved as six
country parks. These parks run across the spine of the island, from
west to east. Several hiking trails criss-cross the hilly parks.
Lantau wilderness and an airport on one island
The first trail starts conveniently at the Peak Tram station,
which you can reach either via tram or bus. From here, you start the
hike around the Victoria Peak area, with spectacular views of the
city and harbour. Then you head on to Pok Fu Lam and see the
reservoir and rugged seacoast.
The second hike starts close to the
middle of Hong Kong Island. Take a bus headed for Stanley, but get
off at Wong Nai chung Gap. Follow a series of stairs to Parkview
Mansions. This hike takes you past the Tai Tam reservoirs and Tai
Tam Bay in the south.
The third hike takes you along the “Dragon’s
Back” ridge. Take a bus to Shek O, but get off just before the Windy
Gap. A Country Parks information board marks the entrance to the
trail. This trail wraps around Tai Tam Bay and offers views of the
shores and outlying islands around the southeastern corner of Hong
Kong Island.
Craggy hills dominate the view of Lantau Island
(pictured above) or “Tai Yu Shan”.
This island practically rises straight out of the sea and has long
been a mariner’s landmark, marking the Eastern end of the Pearl
River estuary. It boasts two of Hong Kong’s tallest peaks Lantau
Peak and Sunset Peak, both close to the center of the island. Again,
there are three trails for hikers. The first trail starts from Nam
Shan and goes through the Mui Wo valley. This hike takes you through
old villages, some abandoned, and you get to see the agricultural
activities carried out here. The trail ends at the village of Pak
Ngan Heong, with views dominating the entire valley, a very old
temple and a waterfall not far away.
The second hike starts not far from the famous Po Lin Monastery,
with its giant statue of Buddha. This hike gives view of the
northern shore of Lantau, including the new airport. The hike
crosses several streams which are at risk from development. The view
is dominated by Lantau Peak, also known as Fun Wong Shan Phoenix
Peak. Freshwater fish inhabit the waterways while birdwatchers may
be able to catch the Hainan blue flycatcher and crested kingfisher.
A third hike takes the intrepid trailwalker around the southwestern
tip of Lantau Island, known as the Fan Lau Coast. Interesting
landmarks along the hike are an obelisk marking the sea boundary
between British Hong Kong and China, and an old fort guarding the
channel to Macau built in 1729.
A boat race tradition now treasured the world over
If the hills are one of the timeless elements of Hong Kong, then
the sea must surely be the other one. The Dragon Boat Race is one of
the best known water traditions in Hong Kong. Throughout the middle
of the year, races are held in the popular harbours and fishing
villages such as Shek O, Cheung Chau and Stanley. The race at
Stanley Harbour, on the southern end of Hong Kong Island, which is
in many ways the mother race for all the editions around the world,
is the main event, with international participants joining in the
fun.
The origin of the race lies with a
Chinese legend. A poet from
the ancient kingdom of Chu by the name of Qu Yuan was said to have
been falsely accused of corruption. Indignant, he threw himself into
a river to drown, but the fishermen who respected him rowed out to
try, in vain, to save him.
Today, it is said that virtually any city with a waterfront has
the potential to become a dragon boat race venue. And it truly is a
worldwide phenomenon. Even places as far away as Sweden and Calgary
have active dragon boat communities. However, the race at Stanley is
still considerably traditional, and some of the rites and customs
associated with the origin of the dragon boat are still observed
here.
When the first (and most recent) Hong Kong athlete to win an
Olympic Gold Medal was Lee Lai Shan, in the sport of windsurfing, it
sparked an interest in the sport around the territory. You can head
out to the outlying island of Cheung Chau, at Kwun Yam beach, where
Lai Shan set up her base and still trains for international events.
While here, you can take in the rustic atmosphere of the island,
which feels isolated from the mainland. With no cars around and many
temples to see, this island offers a completely different face of
Hong Kong. You can make it here on a ferry service running from Hong
Kong harbour.
You may not actually be heading out to Hong Kong only for the
outdoors. However, if you do make a trip for the shopping and the
food, spare a little effort and you can discover a whole new side of
Hong Kong right at the doorsteps of the cosmopolitan city.
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