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A Winter
Holiday in Ireland

When the ancient Romans went
on their conquering sprees about the Continent, they managed to make it as far
as England and Wales, but decided to give Ireland a miss. The name they gave
that westernmost island says it all: Hibernia, land of cold winters. Since then,
most visitors have decided to follow the Roman example and give Ireland the cold
shoulder come September and just like the Romans, they’ll never know the
treasures they were missing.
Despite what the
warm-blooded Romans probably thought, winter in Ireland is surprisingly mild,
thanks to the nearby Gulf Stream, which keeps temperatures at a comfortable 7 C
even during the January. Some years, snow will add a decorative touch to the
landscape, but almost never enough to make traveling a hassle. Warm, layered
clothing is all you’ll need.
The famous Irish rains are
at their heaviest during the winter, particularly in the West, so be prepared
with good rain gear. Having said that, don’t let it bother you much; you can
come in August and still be deluged. Thanks to the rains though, there is at
least one pleasant surprise for the visitor, for despite the nude trees, the
grass stays startlingly green even in deep winter, proof positive you’re on the
Emerald Isle.
Some Places
To Go in Ireland
To really enjoy a stay in
Ireland in winter, pick your spots carefully. You’ll never go wrong if you stay
in cozy Dublin, which is just large enough to feel cosmopolitan, but still small
enough to be unmistakably Irish. The museums are always open, the students from
the universities keep a dense offering of clubs, theatres and other
entertainments well supplied with bodies and talent and if all else fails to
delight, there’s plenty of pubs serving decent grub, better beer and that
all-time favourite indoor Irish sport: having a good craic! If you don’t know
what that means, ask a fellow in a pub and be prepared to have it explained at
length.
To really get to the soul of
Ireland however or as much as you can without intimate friendships with the
locals you have to get out of the cities and into the country. There are those
who say that a landscape shapes its people and their history; and very few
people seem to embody that idea more than the Irish and their verdant,
melancholy countryside.
On a quest for
soul-searching, you can wander around the endless heath lands of Donegal, or
explore the idyllic farm landscapes of Kilkenny, or even the wild Burren country
of Clare. If you have a penchant for Irish history, a ramble around the
countryside can be the perfect way to explore it. Scattered about the landscape
in the oddest nooks and crannies are timeless reminder of their history: ruined
castles hidden in a stand of trees, Celtic crosses worn almost smooth by wind
and rain, holy wells where even today people carefully lay down flowers and
offerings…
If you’re just there for the
view however, head for the West, where you’ll see the sights which have made
Ireland a byword for breathtaking landscapes the world over. Freed of the coach
buses of summer, you can drive up and down the Dingle Peninsula, explore the
back lanes of Connemara and dare yourself to stand on the edge of the Cliffs of
Moher without ever having to share ‘your’ views with other visitors.
Some Things To Do in Ireland
When you’ve quenched your
appetite for scenery, warm yourself in the charmingly old-world villages.
Ireland’s unique heritage is at its strongest here in the West, where Rome’s
homogenizing influence never had a chance to dilute or erase the native culture.
Here, Irish is still spoken as a first language and the customs and traditions
often date back to and before the ancient Celts, now modified of course by the later
Christian beliefs, but still holding more than a smidgeon of mysticism and
superstition.
There’s no better place to
meet the people who bring this heritage to life than to visit one of the famous
pubs of Ireland. You’ve probably heard all that jazz about how pubs in Ireland
are the heart and soul of the community, and this is the best time to find out
why.
In the middle of winter, with
no tourists to crowd against, nothing much to do and plenty of time to do it in,
you’ll find the
sort if Irish scenes which
postcards are made of. If you want good conversation, you’ll get it. If you want
traditional Irish music, you’ll get it. If you want good Irish meals, you’ll get
it — three times a day, and big heaping helpings too.
If you prefer to be around
even more people, there’s no lack of opportunities even in winter in the
country. On St Stephen’s Day, you can join the locals who crowd into their favourite pubs to celebrate the occasion, or if you’re a fan of horse-racing
(one of Ireland’s most popular sports) you can make a dash for the Leopardstown
Christmas Racing Festival, when the heady pleasures of the race add a certain
extra zing to the town’s Christmas festivities. In the West, drop by Cork City
at year’s end, when the city celebrates its stint as Capital of Culture with
lightshows, fireworks, some rather impressive underwater pyrotechnics and other
entertainments.
There are plenty of other
entertainments to be found, certainly too many to list in an article like this.
Just let it be said that if a winter holiday is what you need, don’t follow the
Romans and turn back before Ireland; to the brave man (or woman) willing to go
the extra distance, the pleasures of the Emerald Isle awaits.
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