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Many visitors to Pisa’s famed Campo dei Miracoli come to admire
the architecture. They smile at the drunken tilt of the Leaning Bell
Tower; they exclaim over the splendid frescoes of the Campo Santo;
they wonder at the beauty of grand Cathedral; they delight at the
charming marble decorations of the Baptistery; what few realise is
that the aspiration and the dreams of the ancient citizens of Pisa
are immortalised in the structure of these buildings, where almost
every statue, every niche and every floor add their own little tale
about the civic pride, wealth and power of the ancient Pisans.
A sign of prestige
The buildings of the Campo dei Miracoli had their start in the
11th century. This was a time of constant warfare and struggle, as
wealthy merchant-states fought between themselves for power, wealth
and position. Pisa was one of the great economic centres of Italy,
thanks to its sea trade routes, its vast merchant fleet and equally
vast navy. It was an uneasy prominence, however, for the city was in
a constant struggle with the neighbouring state of Florence, who
longed to take over the Pisan’s trade routes.
Competition between
the two took many forms. One particularly favoured method was to
build an awe-inspiring monument as a sign of wealth and political
prestige, which lead to the Pisans building the Cathedral
(pictured above) - the
largest, most ornately beautiful religious edifice ever made in the
Pisan-Romanesque style.
The strong political motivation behind building the Cathedral can
still be seen in some places. On the cathedral's facade sits a long
inscription celebrating the town's victorious war exploits. There
are also reminders of Pisa’s military might. The Cathedrals’ nave or
wide aisle is separated from the narrower aisles on either side by
two rows of twelve huge red granite columns that once stood in Greek
or Roman temples: these were taken by the Pisans in war and brought
home in their ships.
The interior of the Cathedral has also said to be a part of
science history. Supposedly, the slow swinging of the chandelier
suggested to Galileo the idea of a pendulum. The same chandelier is
claimed to have aided another great scholar in deriving the secret
of the attraction of gravitation. Modern architects often rave over
the Cathedral’s architecture, which is considered to be the finest
example of Pisan architecture. Their opinions were shared by the
builders of the Cathedral, who were so impressed by their own work
that they inscribe in Latin in the far left arch: "This marble
church has no equal".
A Bell Tower Above All
Others
Once the Pisans had their spectacular Cathedral, what did they do
but decide to build a bell tower nearby, for of course no cathedral
would be complete without its bell tower (pictured right). Of course, the decision
may have been influenced by the fact that Venice had just recently
finished a much-admired bell tower. The Pisans were determined to
have a one too; and since the Venetian tower was of bricks, the
Pisans would have one with nothing less than fine white marble.
The decision to build the Tower was to land the Pisans with a
massive headache for the next 800 years. First, they needed a
location for it. Unfortunately the Cathedral was already occupying
the best spot, so the next best was used. It was swampy, uneven
ground, which from the very beginning plagued them with problems.
The building stood on subsoil consisting of clay, fine sand and
shells hardly a stable foundation.
Construction of the tower began in 1174 and progressed in fits
and starts, as innumerable wars with eager Florence drew money away
from the Tower. There were in fact so many breaks in construction
that a succession of architects (scholars still argue over their
exact identities) tried their hand at building the tower, each
adding new features, so that the style of the tower at the bottom is
completely different from the style at the top.
In a way, this was
good for the tower: modern analysis shows that if the tower was
built all in one go, the subsoil wouldn’t have consolidated and the
tower would have collapsed completely by now. In any case, over the
centuries the loose soil became responsible for the slow sinking of
the Tower, a colossal headache for the architects trying to correct
the famous lean, and a booming tourism industry for the city. The
steady flow of visitors is in no way lessened by the persistent
stories going around that the 11th century Pisans had the brilliant
idea of deliberately making the tower lean as a great tourist
gimmick.
Echoes in the Baptistery
The last structure to be built was the baptistery, which was
begun in 1152, and took over two hundred years to complete. The
building probably the only one without an overtly political message,
as it was built out of religious necessity. According to strict
theological doctrine, un-baptised persons may not enter a church,
which posed something of a conundrum for newborn babies, who
therefore couldn’t enter the church to be baptised. The Italians
solved the problem by building the baptistery outside the church.
When it comes to civic pride however, it would hardly come as a
surprise that the baptistery was designed to be one of the largest
in Italy, and the ancient Pisans would have been pleased to know
that today, it is considered ‘perhaps the most beautiful Baptistery
in Christendom’.
Any baby about to be baptised in this magnificent structure would
certainly have made his presence known, as the acoustics of the
interior are such that even a soft whisper reverberates around the
room. The acoustics are in fact one of the building’s main draws,
and baptistery attendants often earn tips by singing for tourists
who marvel at the echoes a single voice is said to sound like an
entire chorus of singers. After much research, Italian musicologists
came to the conclusion that the building was deliberately designed
with acoustics in mind, and have even tossed around the idea of
holding a concert inside the building as a tribute to the ingenuity
of the builders.
Unfortunately for the pride of the ancient Pisans, modern day
Pisa is a far less prominent city, with most of the attention
focused on these monuments from more influential times. Perhaps
these proud forefathers would be content to know that their
buildings, created as statements of wealth and power, are still so
admired that they draw visitors from around the world (and even from
their rivals Florence and Venice) to their city, as they were
intended to do.
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