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There are few countries in the world that pay as much attention
and care in preserving their traditions as Japan. In many countries,
ancient professions such as pottery making and weaving have been
relegated to the status of hobby crafts and the skills of their best
craftsmen are left to die out.
In Japan, these crafts are celebrated
as cultural treasures and generously supported by both the
government and the populace. Far from being simple hobbies, the
crafts are esteemed as valuable traditional industries, and nowhere
is the appreciation for these professions more clear than in the
city of Kyoto.
The city of tradition
Kyoto is often called the cultural centre in Japan, the most
traditional of the big cities. This ancient city is the complete
opposite of frantic, utterly modern Tokyo, with its abundant
temples, parks and historic buildings. The most impressive and
important of these structures is the ancient Imperial Palace, and
its presence has in many ways made the city what it is today. Over
the centuries, many craftsmen were drawn to Kyoto to make a better
living by offering their services to the royal court. Potters,
weavers, doll-makers, fan-makers, bamboo workers, calligraphers,
lacquerers and many other artisans established their workshops and
families in the city, and became an integral part of the history,
society and economy of Kyoto.
Today, many of their descendants still follow the family craft,
making their wares and preserving the skills handed down through the
family over many generations. In an age where everything is machine
produced, disposable and made to mediocre standards, these craftsmen
are proud to make their exquisite products almost entirely by hand.
They are considered upholders of a proud heritage and the popular
respect shown to them is reflected in the title the Japanese
government bestows on the very best craftsmen. Though often
translated as "Living National Treasures", the Japanese words are
more appropriately translated as "Bearers of Intangible Cultural
Assets."
Another unusual aspect of these Japanese traditional professions
is that unlike in other countries, the wares these artisans produce
are not simple ornaments or nostalgic products from a bygone era.
The goods they produce are still used in normal Japanese life;
families eat from the pottery, use the textiles for clothing, store
their goods in the lacquered boxes, and cook with the bamboo
utensils. Despite their practical use, products are so well made
that many blur the line between art and utility. The customers
recognize the high level of craftsmanship underlying these simple
products and are often willing to pay very high prices to obtain the
best of the wares.
Kyoto’s Intricate Textiles and Delicate Ceramics
One of the most famous of Kyoto’s traditional
professions is weaving and the epicentre of this industry is the
Nishijin district, located to the northwest of the Imperial Palace.
Walking along the streets, you can hear the clatter of looms coming
from deep inside the workshops lining the roads. There are literally
hundreds of techniques involved in the weaving process but the one
most commonly associated with Kyoto is yuzen-dying.
Originally
Nishijin weaving used silk threads that are dyed before being woven
into their intricate patterns; unfortunately, only the aristocracy
could afford these expensive fabrics. In the 17th century, wealthy
merchants began to clamour for the same materials but the shogun
promptly forbade such extravagance. Fortunately, Yuzensai Miyazaki
soon came up with a method for hand-dyeing
fabrics to create the same elaborate effect.
Yuzen dyeing is an
incredibly complex process, involving successive applications of
glutinous-rice paste and dye. Afterwards, the pattern is often
enhanced with powdered gold or silver leaf, or embroidered with gold
threads to produce intricately detailed, multicoloured designs.
These elaborate designs sometimes influence the collection of
international couturiers and are often imitated by mass clothing
manufacturers. Such costly fabrics are available for sale in many of
the shops in the Nishijin district and are most often used for obis
and other kimono related accessories, though many also use them for
decoration. Those not willing to buy the materials can still view
the exquisite samples on display at the various galleries.
Another famed Kyoto craft is pottery, which has
been strongly associated with the city since its founding. The
pottery district is in east Kyoto, in the area known as Gojozaka, or
Ochawan zaka, which can be translated as "ceramics vessel street."
Many pottery stores line the streets here, offering Kiyomizu
pottery. The name of the ceramics style is taken from the nearby
Kiyomizu Temple and the roads leading up to the temple are
especially crowded with workshops that sell their wares to the
visitors who flock to the temples. Kyoto pottery is best known for
its delicate and intricately painted patterns, mostly done in blue
on white, though there are many variations of the style. The range
of pottery and porcelain items now made in Kyoto is very extensive,
from tea ceremony articles to altar pieces, but the most popular
wares are good quality tableware for use at home and in the best
Japanese style restaurants. One of the most unusual offerings
available in these very traditional shops is a very untraditional
ceramic toilet painted in the Kiyomizu style.
Of Lacquerware and Dolls
Lacquerware is also another well-known Kyoto
product. Kyoto’s lacquer ware industry reached its peak during the Muromachi period, when the techniques and products developed in
tandem with the rapidly changing needs and importance of the tea
ceremony. Lacquerware production is a tedious business, in which
wooden objects are coated with hundreds of layers of refined lac
juices. The end result however is often a work of art, decorated
with carvings or other embellishments. Most beautiful of all were
the items decorated with gold or silver dust. These precious items
form a class of lacquer ware known as kanazawa shikki and today, are
some of the most sought after products in Kyoto. Among the types of
lacquerware produced are tea ceremony items, a staggering variety of
tableware, storage containers such as jewellery boxes and even
furniture, many of which become family heirlooms.
One of the most charming traditional products
still made in Kyoto is the ceramic doll. This exquisite creation had
an ancient superstitious purpose: they were first made in the belief
that any evil that might affect a child would instead afflict the
doll. As time went by these early dolls evolved into the dolls with
which children of the noble families played during the Heian period.
Today, the dolls are made for ornamentation rather than play, but
are still very popular. These figurines are often dressed in the
most elaborate costumes, made from the finest Kyoto textiles and
depict members of the various classes making up Japanese society
through the ages, from farmers to samurai and geishas. There are
many different types of dolls and each is made for a particular
occasion: religious offerings, souvenirs, theatrical, festivals both
family and public and gifts.
Though the dolls have lost much of
their superstitious use, they are still an important part of
everyday life. Many families have at least one doll, which plays an
important part during the family celebration of the Girl Festival
and the Boy Festival. Japanese businessmen also sometimes present
them as gifts to their foreign associates and there are many avid
collectors, both Japanese and foreign. The highest quality dolls
often sells for thousands of dollars.
There are many other beautiful wares on offer in
Kyoto, from folding fans to bamboo whisks and stone lanterns. The
most exquisite pieces tend to be beyond the reach of all but the
wealthiest visitor, but often there are exhibitions and gallery
displays where the public can admire these beautiful pieces. Many of
the individual workshops offer enchanting products at reasonable
prices. For the bargain hunters there are often flea markets
offering everything from old kimonos, to ceramics and vintage dolls.
In Japan, there is still a strong stigma against buying second hand
goods, so these unappreciated treasures often sell for amazingly
cheap prices.
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