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A Natural Getaway At
Lake Kenyir
Some
days, staying in the big city can grate on your nerves. The traffic, the
noise, the incessant rushing… for those who want to escape from the mad rush
of the urban environment for a few days, back to the cool green quiet of the
country, one of the most popular holiday getaways for Malaysians is Lake
Kenyir, a vast lake located in the northern state of Terengganu.
In a country that has
only two natural lakes (Lake Chini and Lake Bera), Kenyir Lake is
particularly unique - it is an artificial lake, created when the Kenyir dam
was built in 1985 over the Kenyir River. Not only because it is one of the
few major bodies of water in the country, but also because it holds the
record as
the biggest man-made lake in South-East Asia, covering
an area of of 260 square kilometres. To put this in perspective, the
Kenyir Lake is larger than the island of Singapore!
Kenyir Lake is located
about 65 km away from Terengganu’s biggest city, Kuala Terengganu. Pengkalan
Utama is the main gateway to the lake and its many attractions, though an
older gateway is located at Pengkalan Gawi. From these points, visitors can
get boat transfer to the resorts, book activities, learn more about the Lake
at the Tourist Centre ang get a permit for entry and if necessary, camping
or fishing. Lake Kenyir also serves as one of the gateways (abeit a watery
one) to the Taman Negara National Park in the neighbouring state of Pahang.
One of the more popular
activities at Lake Kenyir is fishing. It is known throughout the country as
an angler’s paradise and on many weekends, you’ll see boats heading out over
the water, filled with fishermen patiently trying their luck. For visitors
interested in trying their hand at catching a wily fish, a permit is
required (cost RM10 at time of publishing). Some of the fishermen are locals
catching a meal, others serious anglers come from as far as the southern
states and still others are amateurs trying fishing for the first time under
the supervision of a private boat operator. There is an abundance of fish in
the waters, with over 25 known species of fish regularly pulled from its
waters, and they range from the placid baung to the vicious toman.
Incidentally, the latter is famous locally for its viciousness and
aggression, and there are tales of fishermen who carelessly trailed their
hands in the water and had a frisky toman bite the tips off their fingers!
Kenyir Lake is located
near enough to Kuala Terengganu that those who prefer a more urban
environment can visit the lake as a day trip and return to the city at
night; but for those who prefer to spend the night in the quiet surrounds of
the lake, there are a variety of accommodations available, with most running
to the ‘lakeside chalet’ type. Many will offer special promotions and
packages, including transfers from the jetty to the resort. For those who
prefer more exotic lodgings, houseboats are available for rent, either for
day trips or for tours – and some of the more posh houseboats can sleep 12
persons and come with everything, including air conditioning! A houseboat
also makes it much easier to explore the 340 ‘islands’ scattered about Lake
Kenyir. Some of the resorts are located on the islands, conveniently
combining exclusivity and privacy in a lush island jungle setting. These
resorts often also offer a variety of outdoor activities, from jungle
trekking to caving to water sports, excursion to local points of interest
such as the nearby Herb Garden and island hopping.
The
‘islands’ of Lake Kenyir are, like the lake itself, artificial, and are
actually the tops of hills or highlands which were inundated when the Lake
was first created. There are 340 islands now, and the highest peak is Mount
Gergau, which towers almost 855m. For nature lovers, one of the more
relaxing activities at Lake Kenyir is to just hire a boat and cruise around
the islands, photographing and maybe stopping by to explore the islands and
maybe have a picnic onshore. In addition, for those who prefer more cooling
picnic spots, there are over 14 waterfalls scattered around the shoreline.
One of the best known is Lasir Waterfall, an imposing 500 foot cascade of
white water tumbling over permanently wet bronze-coloured rock. The fall is
located about a half hour boat ride from Pengkalan Gawi, making it one of
the most accessible falls on the Lake. Less showy than Lasir, the Saok
waterfall makes up for its lack in height with greater breadth, as a broad
sheet of water rushes down over the steep rocks, while the Tembat fall makes
do with offering a five levels of picturesque cascades. The waterfall is
edged by the green forest, and at each level of the fall there are pools for
bathing. These are the most popular ones, but there are many other
waterfalls to explore, including Leban, Terenggan and Petuang.
Since Lake Kenyir serves
an important function as a reservoir for the state, its water level has a
tendency to change over the year. The water level is at its highest during
March and April, which is also when the lake is at its most beautiful and
crowded, but the locals prefer to come in August, when the water is lower
and the fishing is better. Whatever time you choose to go however, the one
thing that’s certain is that you’ll enjoy a quiet, relaxing time in the cool
green surrounds of the lake!
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