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Climbing Mount
Kinabalu
 Sabah
is often touted by travel agents and tour operators for the many natural
attractions it offers – dense, untouched rainforests; pristine beaches
edging crystal clear waters and mighty river winding deep into the interior.
Due to the well preserved natural environment, Sabah is also popular with
the outdoor crowd for its jungle trekking, river rafting, water sports and
other adventurous activities. Of all the natural attractions and outdoor
activities in Sabah however, nothing compares to a climb up the
world-renowned Mount Kinabalu.
Though it is popular with
climbers of all levels of competencies, Mount Kinabalu is particularly
attractive to casual climbers because it is so accessible. Climbing Mount
Kinabalu doesn’t require specialized climbing equipment, and
even a moderately healthy
and fit person can make the climb in about two days. It is also a
spectacular mountain climb, as the trail ascends swiftly from steamy lowland
jungle to cool montane forests, through misty cloud forest to sub alpine
meadows and finally, to a desolate crown of grey granite.
For climbers, there is
also the added attraction of climbing a peak that’s officially recorded as
the tallest in South East Asia. The main peak of the mountain, Low’s Peak,
is officially listed as 4,095 metres above sea level – and because of
imperceptible tectonic movements, the peak is actually growing by about 5mm
a year! The mountain itself is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site
and is the object of veneration to the local Kadazandusun tribe who has
lived around its slopes for generations.
The History of Mount
Kinabalu
The very name Kinabalu is
often attributed to the Kadazan words, aki nabalu, which translates
to 'the revered place of the dead'. The name reflects the local belief that
the spirits of their ancestors dwell on the mountaintop. Even today, the
local guides will perform a religious ceremony every year to appease the
spirits of the mountain. The first (foreign) person to climb the mountain
was Colonial Secretary for the British crown colony of Labuan, Sir Hugh Low
in 1851, and the peak he first climbed is now named after him.
Part of the reason it
took so long for a foreigner to climb the mountain was because up until
then, the mountain was surrounded by dense jungle, much too difficult for
the average traveller to traverse. Since then, a sealed road has been cut
though the forest, making the mountain much easier to reach, and since 1964,
when the area surrounding the peak was gazetted as a national park, over a
million visitors have entered the park. Of all the visitors, about ten
percent would make the attempt to climb Mount Kinabalu.
Getting to Mount Kinabalu
 Most
visitors to Mount Kinabalu come via Kota Kinabalu, the capital city of Sabah
located some 90km away. There are direct flights to Kota Kinabalu every day
from Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia; there are also direct flights
from Singapore, Hong Kong, Manila, Brunei and Taipei.
During the wet season,
the trail up Mount Kinabalu is often too slippery and dangerous to climb, so
it is best to schedule any climbing trip during the dry season from February
to April, when conditions are more favourable. Having said that, there are
also excellent dry periods during the inter-monsoon season, between August
to September, so sometimes the chances of good weather can come down to just
pure luck.
To get to the Kinabalu
Park, travellers can take either a bus or taxi from the new town bus station
situated in Inanam, about 10 km from the city. From this station, take the
8am bus going to Kundasang/Ranau, which passes by the Kinabalu Park
Headquarters. The trip takes about 2 hours and costs about RM20 a person;
alternatively, you could charter a taxi to drive you straight to the Park
Headquarters, at about RM 90 one way per taxi with a maximum of 4
passengers. If you’ve booking a climbing package from a hotel or tour
operator, transportation is usually included.
Once at the park, don’t
forget to pay the entrance fee, the climbing permit fee and mountain guide
fee. The guide is not an option – climbers must be accompanied by a guide at
all times. The fee for the guide varies depending on the number of people in
the party. Groups can also pay for a porter to carry their luggage up the
mountain. There is also fee for insurance, transport to the Timpohon
gate where the actual climb begins, and for the certificate indicating a
completed climb. These fees do not include accommodation, equipment (if any)
and food.
When planning for the
climb, make sure your accommodation bookings are made well in advance.
Sutera Sanctuary Lodges is the only authorized accommodation provider in
Kinabalu Park, and because of the increase in climbers in recent years, they
are often fully booked months ahead. Arranging your accommodations in
advance is also important because if you do not make a booking for the
second night at the Laban Rata lodge, you will not be allowed to continue
the ascent to the summit. Most visitors will stay one night in the Kinabalu
Park Headquarters, and one night at the Laban Rata. There is a variety of
accommodations at both locations, from hostel dorms to exclusive chalets.
Due to the high altitude, Laban Rata can get very cold, down to 0
°C
at night. Heated rooms are only available at the Laban Rata Resthouse, so
you might want to specify a heated room when you make your booking!
Climbing the Mountain
The climb up to the
summit takes two days, ascending along a winding 8.5km trail along the
southern side of the mountain. This may not seem far, but over this
relatively short distance, climbers will be ascending almost 3,000 metres, a
very sharp rise in altitude. The climb is broken up into two segments; the
Trail climb on the first day, and the Summit climb which begins very early
the following morning. Though the climb is relatively easy compared to other
mountain treks, it is still a significantly taxing physical activity, so
before going on your climb, make sure you consult with your doctor and get a
physical examination, particularly if you have to take any medication or
have heart, lung or joint problems.
The first Trail climb
begins with a short bus ride from the accommodations at the Headquarters to
the Timpohon gate, which stands at 1800m. From the gate, climbers will
slowly ascend to the Laban Rata hut at 3,300 m – a journey which takes about
3 to 6 hours. The trail’s gradient increases gradually, and the steeper
sections have roughly cut, uneven stairs dug into the earth to help ease the
climb. To keep from exhausting yourself, it’s best to keep a slow, steady
pace; if you can’t hold a conversation when you’re climbing, you’re likely
going too fast. You can also stop for a rest at the seven huts or shelters
along the way. The shelters also have mountain springs nearby so climbers’
don’t have to carry heavy bottles of water with them. Along this stretch of
trail, you’ll be treated to some beautiful forest scenery as you pass from
lowland jungle to montane forest, with ferns, orchids, and towering trees
all pressing in close to the trail. Kinabalu is particularly blessed for
having of the most diverse collection of plant species in the world. Many of
these plants are found nowhere else in the world and are protected species,
so please don’t pluck the flowers or try to take plants home!
Once climbers reach the
Laban Rata, the first part of the climb is over and the remainder of the day
is free for some rest and relaxation. The food at the Laban Rata
accommodations is rather more expensive than at the Headquarters, because
every bit of it has to be hand carried up the trail. It is at this point
that altitude sickness usually makes itself felt; and contrary to some
opinions, no factors such as age, sex or medical history reliably indicate
who will be affected by it. Anyone feeling in the slightest bit sick should
stop ascending. Medications can help, but should the symptoms persist, do
not continue and return immediately to a lower altitude.
The next section of climb
is the Summit climb, which starts very early in the morning, usually at
about 3 a.m. At this point, a headlight becomes absolutely essential. The
Summit climb covers barely 800m, but this short distance can take up to 4
hours to cover. At the lower attitude, the temperature is still warm enough
that thick cotton clothes are all you’d need, but at this stage of the
climb, thick rainproof jackets, gloves, balaclavas and other cold-weather
gear become necessary, especially for climbers not used to a cold climate.
The lower section of this trail is rather steep, and there are ladders in
place (often fashioned from tree branches and roots). Fortunately, as the
trail nears the edge of the tree line, the trail levels out and climbing
becomes easier. At about 3,810 meters, climbers will come to the last
mountain hut at Sayat-Sayat. Here, climbers can see the dark forests
stretching out below, and the equally dark bulk of the summit looming just
up ahead. From this point on, climbers travel over bare, windswept granite
rock and at some particularly steep sections, they must pull themselves up
the rock face with the aid of ropes anchored in the rock. At this point, be
sure to stay close to the ropes and not wander off, as it is easy to lose
your bearings in the rocky landscape and wander from the trail.
Finally, climbers will
reach the absolute summit – a stark, grey rocky expanse of windswept
granite. If the timing is right, and the climbers arrive at about 6am, the
sunrise will have just begun and the view of the surrounding peaks bathed in
early morning light is magnificent. At this height, the clouds often seem
close enough to touch and on some mornings, they really will be low enough
to shroud the mountain in white mist.
After taking pictures,
having a bit of breakfast and resting, climbers will begin the descent – and
it is at this point that the extra caution should be exercised. Most
climbers will be tired now, elated at having completed the climb and less
likely to pay attention to their footing. It is on the descent that most
accidents occur, especially as the trip down puts added pressure on the
ankles and knees. On the way down though, if there is time, ask the guide to
make aside trip to the ‘sacrifice pool’, where the local guides performed
religious ceremonies to appease the spirits of the mountain and their
ancestors who dwell on the summit. Once you’ve completed the descent, stop
by the Kinabalu Park Headquarters to pick up your certificate. If you
completed the ascent up to the Laban Rata, you will be given a black and
white certificate signed by your guide; if you complete the final leg of the
climb all the way to Low’s Peak, then the certificate will be in colour.
With this certificate in hand, you can now proudly say that you’ve
successfully climbed the highest mountain in South East Asia!
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