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I was alone on watch as the huge orange sphere rose out of
the black sea. Slowly the water turned back to blue as the sun rose
higher. Dolphins soon romped playfully and leaped next to us. The
ocean swells lifted us high up to the crests, then we slid down as
the waves waned only to be lifted again as before. It was a pattern
the boat understood and the dolphins enjoyed.
The wind filled the sails and we glided like an osprey in flight.
Free from the land and it's bonds. This was our first morning in the
notorious Gulf Stream, part of the infamous Bermuda Triangle.
Florida is probably the most popular winter vacation spot for the
North American East Coast traveler seeking the warm sun, and it's
inexpensive to get there. You can drive, take a bus, train, or fly
supersaver. People come as far away as the Midwest, Northern Canada,
and the Maritime Provinces.
What you do when you get there is another matter. There are many
things to see here, but they can be expensive. Decent hotels and
travel to attractions do not come cheap. You could try a captained
charter from Florida to the Bahamas. My Family: my wife, Pat; our
daughters, Stephanie, 22; Megan, 10; Jennifer, 8; I myself and a
friend of Steph's did just that. The lure of
sparkling beaches, snorkling, and fishing were the main motivations
for going, plus the chance to read and relax in a peaceful secluded
atmosphere. (I happened to be the captain, and the boat
was a CSY 44).
The first day we left Ft. Lauderdale and took the Intra-coastal
Waterway south past Miami. Toward evening we anchored in a lovely
cove called “No Name Harbor” on Key Biscayne. The
forecast called for winds from the south, at ten to fifteen knots,
perfect for breaching the Stream, so at two in the morning we left
our anchorage for the Bahamas.
When the sun came up at 6:30 am we had already sailed halfway across
the 48 miles between Miami and Gun Cay. At ten we sighted Gun Cay
Light and were two hours out, getting close to the eastern edge of
the Stream.
The one that got away?
Suddenly my wife Pat saw the water churn behind us. "Look at fish by the
seaweed," she said as a large fish leapt completely from the water. The line
whizzed out; we had a strike. "What is it?" Stephanie said to me. "I don't
know." I said. Wayne, her friend, ran back to the rod while I slowed the boat
down. "Hit him! He's got the bait in his mouth," I said.
The fish jumped again and the rod
bent heavily. Wayne had never fished offshore before, so I went back to help him
reel. After a 15 minute fight, I ached.
Then the dolphin broke the
surface again. "I can see him," Megan said. "Wow! I can too. He's lots of
colors," Jenny added. Wayne got the gaff ready as the fish grudgingly came
toward the boat. Stephanie went to get the camera. He was weak now,
but I didn't know who was worse. Sweat rolled over my brow and
burned, but the excitement kept me busy. The fish came to the top as
he had lost his momentum. Wayne steadied the gaff, but just then the
dolphin gathered all his strength and shook loose. We were all
motionless.
"I'm kind of glad he got away, Dad," Megan said. "Me too," Jenny
agreed. "We lost an excellent meal," I concluded. There will be
others, I thought, and there were. In the days ahead we caught a
king mackerel, bar jack, a nassau grouper, and a dolphin. We also
caught pan sized reef fish while anchored. Soon after that we
entered the channel to Cat Cay. We cleared customs and immigration
at the Club, then stretched our legs on the beach by the picturesque
lighthouse.
Later in the day we anchored in Honeymoon Harbor on the northern end
of Gun Cay. After a short beach expedition for hermit crabs, we
settled down to dinner. The three girls held crab races with the
twenty critters we had caught while Mom and the captain did the
dishes. Wayne fished off the aft deck. Then we all watched a
gorgeous sunset and talked about the fish that
got away. The night was cool and we slept well. It had been a fine
first day.
The sun emerged from the low clouds over the bank. "Another nice day
in paradise," I said to myself as I sipped my coffee while checking
the anchor. After breakfast we took the dinghy to the beach with
lunch, and I spent the day tanning and swimming in the warm surf. In
the Bahamas there are many fine beaches. If you are outgoing, new
acquaintances are endless, or if you are the private kind, just take
your towel a short distance for solitude.
Leading the way to the anchorage at Chub Cay
Toward evening we entertained a couple who had kept their boat at our marina a
few years back. As we sat in the cockpit we could hear the fish thrashing around
us. The green streaks of disturbed plankton glowing gave the predators away as
they chased their dinner. Under millions of stars, we watched and listened.
Occasionally a heron broke the silence with a shriek yell. Sleep came easy.
We left early in the morning for the Berry Islands, 75 miles across
the Bahama Bank. There were six boats going. The bank showed clear
and shallow. The girls climbed the railings to watch starfish,
stingrays, and turtles as the boat glided over the mirror-like sea.
FOOT LOOSE was last to leave, but we were the largest boat, so we
took the lead. We kept cool by dousing each other with buckets of
water.
As the sun went down we reached Northwest light and one hour after
dark we anchored in the cove just outside Chub Cay Marina. There
were ten other boats in the lagoon and we went down the winding way
close to the beach. It was some of the skippers’ first time on the
bank so they requested I give them assistance by radio to help them
come in through the reef. In two hours, I had guided all the boats
safely in, with my instructions and our strobe light at the
masthead. People are always helpful when cruising the islands.
In the morning we motored into the deep narrow channel that led to
the marina. We spent one day at the resort which cost only 26
dollars per night. There was a nice pool, restaurant, and
beach opposite the marine facilities. There we bought lobsters for
$1.50 and conch for $1.00 each. Tough to beat those prices, huh? It
was a day away from the confines of the boat, and the
girls enjoyed the pool and shelling at the beach, plus dinner on the
shore that evening.
The next day we sailed to Frozen cay harbor which is one of the
loveliest and most protected in the Berry Island group. The reef was
in calm shallow water, excellent for snorkeling. The long pink beach
was one of the best I had seen. When we landed we noticed a shy dog
roaming the beach. Someone had abandoned a small dog on the island.
They left a note on a stick asking visiting yachtsmen to feed it,
which we happily did. It was very timid so we could pet it, but the
girls wanted to catch and adopt it. As the captain, I had to
overrule their suggestion.
After the trip — still money left over for Oranges
In the morning we sailed to Little Harbour Cay and Guana Cay,
just a few miles away. We anchored in a small cove with a tiny
beach, had lunch, then landed. From a distance out at sea we had
seen an old abandon house on a hill. When we got to shore we decided
to explore. As we walked along the overgrown path, we heard weird
sounds coming from the bushes. We all stopped in our tracks and
waited. Suddenly, we saw six chickens scratching for food. We all
laughed. In the house were old Nassau newspapers that dated back to
1969, before the Bahamas had gained independence. The house was a
disaster zone; we took pictures, then walked back down to the beach.
It was getting late so we went back on board, weighed anchor, and
sailed backed to our anchorage at Chub Cay. The next day we sailed
back across the Bank, and anchored off Gun Cay again that night. In
the morning we sailed the nine miles to Bimini and docked at the
Bimini Blue Water Club. After lounging around the pool, we had
lunch, then went to my favorite tavern, The End Of The World Saloon.
There we did some serious dancing. The sand floor and graffiti
covered walls and ceiling are worth the trip.
Toward evening we went to the Angler Inn where Ernest Hemingway
spent much time between marlin fishing off Bimini, and Bahamians say
he wrote the novel ISLANDS IN THE STREAM, AND THE OLD MAN AND THE
SEA.(?) There is a museum room that houses some of his best fishing
photographs, and captions from THE OLD MAN AND THE SEA. The Inn
jumps in the evening with a live Reggae band. The crowd consists of
tourists, tournament fishermen, natives, sailors, and Piccolo Pete,
Bimini's song writer, stand-up comic, singer, and island business
entrepreneur, all rolled into one. The nights here are musical.
The next morning was spent shopping, then a couple of hours on the
beach. After lunch, we cast our lines and headed for the narrow
channel, past the reef to the open sea. The compass read 270 and we
were headed due west to Florida. The ocean crossing was fast and
comfortable, with a southeast breeze and the help of the Stream.
Arriving just before dark, we cleaned the boat, packed, and started
north. It had been a great trip and we were all sad it was over.
The yacht charter cost US$2,100.00 for six people. The food was less
than US$300.00. If you drive, the trip takes about 20 hours from
Maryland with fuel and food along the way costing about US$50.00.
Our C.S.Y. 44 boat had a 21 cubic feet Fridge-freezer which we
packed with steaks, chicken, pizza, and ground beef. The seafood was
plentiful and free if you caught your own. Lunches were light, and
breakfast cool and easy. We drank juices, Kool-aid, sodas, wine, and
beer.
Things are expensive in the Bahamas, so stock up on your
necessities. And don't forget the exotic tropical drinks, when
you're relaxing under a coconut palm on a white beach next to
crystal clear water watching the world go by. We didn't spend much
cash while there and got back to Florida with money left over for
oranges. |