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Photographing in Vietnam
Taking photographs while you’re on holiday is a great pastime.
For most people, it’s just a way of recording some of the best
moments or scenes from a vacation of a lifetime. For others, it’s a
more serious business, with photography seen as an art form, a
historical record or even a way of making a living.
This is
particularly true of Vietnam, where its rich indigenous culture,
beautiful kaleidoscopic landscape and turbulent recent history have
combined to create a scenic, deeply complex paradise, drawing
vacationers, curious students, veterans and travel photographers
from all around the globe. Whatever the motivation however, one
thing that most visitors have to contend with are the unique
conditions that apply to photographing in Vietnam.
The tropical climate
of Vietnam creates a number of interesting
challenges to the vacation photographer. Heat, humidity, rainstorms,
dust, X-rays, uncertain electricity supply and questionable
processing facilities can dramatically affect the way your
photographs come out. These factors may make shooting particularly
troublesome if you’re a novice photographer shooting in the tropics
for the first time, but even veteran cameramen can run into
unpleasant surprises. In general however, there are three areas in
which taking pictures in Vietnam might pose a challenge: having the
right equipment, the process of taking pictures and getting the
pictures out of the country.
Problems with photography
equipment
When it comes to deciding what equipment to bring, it basically
depends on personal preference. Advise on camera model, film brand,
tripods and bags the possibilities are endless and quite often
what will work for one photographer will not for another. The best
way to overcome these difficulties is to research there are plenty
of photography guides available in bookstores and on the Internet.
Vacationers just returning from the country are also a good source
of information; after all they’ve already made most of the mistakes.
For photographers using film, there are two main areas of concern.
The first is the buying film; if possible, you should probably bring
the rolls yourself. In Vietnam, the number of places selling film rolls is
very small; you’d find a handful of film shops in Hanoi and Ho Chi
Minh and it would take a miracle to find a shop selling decent film
outside the major cities. Also, there’s not guarantee that the shop
stock is recent or has been stored properly, and highly unlikely
that they offer slide film or black and white film, so if you’re
particularly worried about film quality or think you need special
film, its best to bring it with you.
Another area of concern is processing. Vietnamese law still
technically forbids taking
any unprocessed film out of the country: the rolls are supposed to
either be processed in country or risk confiscation. This
includes attempts to Fed-Ex out the rolls, as apparently, Fed Ex also
refuses to process any parcels containing unprocessed rolls.
Unfortunately, there are still only a few film development labs in
the country, and the quality of processing in Vietnam is not always
consistent with the standards most take for granted in the West. The
best bet for a desperate, about-to-fly-out-of-the-country traveller
is to ask at the better hotels for some recommended film shops.
Once
the films are processed however, they can still be subject to
examination. Sometimes the authorities will confiscate prints of
‘sensitive’ subjects, but this a far better alternative than losing
the entire roll, or being detained under suspicion of being a
saboteur. Nowadays, with the growing influx of tourists, most of
whom haven’t heard of this regulation and can’t take a photograph
worth beans anyway, the authorities have become more lenient and
rarely enforce the rule, but bear in mind that the regulation is
still technically in force.
With digital cameras, there’s less hassle involved no worrying
about films, heat, humidity, etc, etc but the constant
need to recharge the camera can also be troublesome. Electric
current in Vietnam is mostly 220V/50Hz, but there is also 110V/50Hz.
Most of the outlets in the South use flat pins in the US-style while
those in the North use round pins in the Russian style. In general,
all hotels rooms have usable outlets, but if you’re staying in cheap
accommodations, finding a usable outlet may be a problem.
Snapping
that photograph
Once you’ve leapt past the equipment hurdle, the actual process
of photographing becomes an interesting adventure. In the major
cities, it is fairly simple: just walk around and click. If you’re
on a tour, that would be ride around on a bus and click. More
serious photographers may want to avoid the tours: they tend to pack
a lot of places in a very short time, making it difficult to
properly focus on getting the shots you want. Also, if you’re on a
tour bus all the time, you miss the chance to capture many great
scenic opportunities lurking just outside your window and its
pretty difficult trying to get a shot through a window on a bouncing
bus.
The best way to go about photographing Vietnam is to go solo, or
with a buddy who understands your camera fixation. Walking is of
course the most thorough way to go, though you can also hire a cyclo
(with driver) for the day and shoot in comfort. Most photographers
will also hire a private car (preferably, after getting the hotel
staff to recommend a company) to make their way around the larger
cities and to move from one village to another.
The private car
usually comes with a driver, which is a blessing. Until 2002, foreigners
were not allowed to drive in Vietnam, and judging by the barely
organized chaos that passes for road traffic today, there was a very
good reason for the restriction. Pedestrians, animals, bicycles,
trucks and motorcycles all weave recklessly along the streets, and
right of way belongs to whoever has the bigger vehicle, or the
strongest nerves. In this situation, it would be best to leave the
driving to the driver, try to ignore the near collisions and focus
on taking pictures. It would also be a good idea to take a short
ride with your prospective driver before committing to hiring him,
not only to check if you’re comfortable with his driving and
company, but to see if you can communicate with him and if he’s
willing to act as a guide as well as a driver in which case, he
would be an invaluable companion.
Challenges to a photographer's
skill
Photographing in Vietnam is a delight, but also a challenge. For
people more used to photographing in the temperate climates, the
additional light from the tropical sun may seem a blessing at first.
The strong sunlight is misleading however - even the most ardent
photographer can’t stand to be in the heat and glare for long and ends
up taking refuge in the cool and shade, together with the wiser
locals! The strong sun not only tests the photographer’s endurance,
but skills, for it washes out colours and atmosphere. The best time
to take pictures will often turn out to be in the dusk and dawn
hours, when the amount of light is significantly reduced.
When it comes to subjects, the obvious cautions apply: no country is
particularly pleased to find foreigners taking pictures of their
military installations or sensitive areas and that is certainly the
case in Vietnam. Apart from that, there’s plenty to shoot. The
scenery is superb, with its vibrant green padi fields, misty
mountains and the endless coastline. There are temple galore,
historic mansions and statues aplenty for those who like that sort
of thing.
The most popular and fascinating subject, however, is
the
people, especially as the tourist influx and increasing contact with
the West hasn’t yet managed to wrench the majority of the people
from their traditional way of life. The Vietnamese are pleasantly
obliging when it comes to posing for photographs, especially in the
more remote areas, where they rarely see tourists.
There are
supposedly regional differences: in the south, the people are said
to be less reserved and more open and smiling; in the North, the
people are less so. Having said that, there’s a very high chance
that - North or South - you can get a local to stop a few minutes
and smile for the camera. The main thing is to treat the locals like
people and not scenery. A few minutes of conversation and a polite
request is often enough to establish a connection and a willing
participant. If you don’t happen to have a local guide with you,
even a few gestures and a smile can convey the message. The children
are especially happy to pose and sometimes may even be difficult to
keep out of the frame!
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